I may even be showing this bike once complete as there can't be many of this version left. They were launched on 3rd August 1977 to celebrate the Queen's Silver Jubilee in 1977 on the suggestion of BL's ex-chairman Lord Stokes and with the approval of the palace. This was a limited edition with only 2400 ever built. Initially 1000 for the US market and 1000 for the rest of the world including the home market, then in November a further 400 were built because Australia and the commonwealth complained at not getting their fair share.
Here are a few photos of how the bike looked as I got it. Note that the seat, tank, panels, exhaust etc are all just placed on the bike. The photos of the naked bike are as it really is although they don't show that the engine and it's cases are not properly fitted, and some of the internals are missing. Most parts had to be tied or taped in place to trailer it back in case they fell of on route. I will add photos as time and work goes on.
1st August 2008
Well I have had a good look around the bike and it looks reasonable but a lot on small, and a few not so small, parts are missing. I have had to get just over 100 parts in total, mainly missing but a few for safety reasons, some are desireable and the odd one or two just because I fancied them. Click here if you want to see the full list of parts I have obtained.
As can be seen from the list there was a lot of parts missing and a few incomplete. These all have to be sourced and replaced. Fortunately most parts are available from the various suppliers, but I had to use a few different ones for availability and price variations. There were also a few parts, like brake seals, fuel lines etc, which I have replaced for safety reasons. Thirty year old rubber and plastic either perishes or gets brittle, so replacing them seemed a good idea (gives me something to keep me going in my retirement - use it or loose it, or so they say).
Lastly there were some bits I just 'wanted' either because they improve reliability/useability, use more advanced technology or just look better. Things like solid state voltage regulator (the rectifier was missing anyway), a replaceable oil filter in the frame, an oil pressure gauge are just a few examples.
So all the bits required (funny there always is something else as you get thru the jobs) are sourced, ordered and have arrived - time to get on with the work. Broken down into brakes, electrics, engine/transmission, fuel, forks, frame and bodywork. I made a 'To Do' list in some sort of order to progress work smoothly without to much removing/refitting parts again. It has worked very well with a few things being extended when additional parts found to be missing. Such as noticing the timing cover screws not tight, take it off to find the crankshaft oil seal & circlip missing. In the RAF, at least in the old days, we worked on the principle "never assume - CHECK", it always pays off. Also I got the chance of a 4-valve oil pump but no bolts for it, so I had to order them. That put back the fitting of the seals as there can be clearance issues with the 4-valve pumps which can make it necessary to remove the timing cover several times. Not good for the new seals, so fitting them once the oil pump fitting is complete was preferable. Anyway on with the rebuild.
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24th August 2008
Well I started by loosely fitting all the bits that came with the bike, this gave me a basic idea of what was missing, incomplete, broken or just needed replacing. Turned out not too bad all in all as I suspected there was a lot more work & parts required than the last owner said. "A day's work and it will be ready for MOT" he said - Understatement - you better believe it! Anyway a list of parts was drawn up including the safety items mentioned above and a trawl around the internet including ebay sources 95% of the parts needed, the rest I would have to fabricate myself.
Brakes
I started in ernest with the brakes. I stripped the calipers and found that apart from some gunged up old fluid they were remarkably good, even the seals looked ok but were all replaced by new ones (I have since discovered that the last but one owner had them replaced about 8 years ago). I also replaced all the seals in the master cylinders, but the grub screw on the front one would not come out - even broke an allen key trying. Easy-out no use also, so I had to drill it out. Problem was the very tip stayed in the hole and try as I might I could not get it out. So I had to force the barrel round, damaging the threads a bit in the process but not bad enough to wreck it. I will have to replace it later but for now it will be ok - it IS safe to use.
Next the two metal pipes had to be made up, luckily I have the tools and parts. The front hoses were replaced by braided ones and all the pipework was fitted. That's when I found that the lower fork pinch bolts were in the wrong way round (a lot more examples like this to follow), I turned them round and the bottom hose is no longer under strain. The rear master cylinder and caliper were also fitted as far as possible at the moment. I ordered a rear brake hose but it hasn't arrived yet.
The brake discs were next, I removed the chromed ones (nice for showing but not much use in the wet) and replaced them with cast iron ones. The missing rear pads were fitted to the caliper. Once the missing rear torque arm and it's special bolt & nuts arrived they too were fitted. That completed the brakes for the moment, to be finished once the rear wheel and handlebars are finally fitted. No use having brake fluid in the systems if they have to be split for any reason later. The rear hose has not arrived yet so I have used the old hose and will fit the new one on the next service.
Both systems have now been filled, bled and checked out ok, even the brake light is working as it should. Another few jobs completed, we're getting there.
Electrics
I was and still am in two minds whether to convert to Negative earth, for the moment I've stayed with Positive earth. The rectifier was missing, so as there isn't much difference between the cost of a replacement one and a solid state voltage regulator - the voltage reg won the toss. They are more reliable, or should be, and there is less cabling in the system. I decided to fit it inside the RH rear side panel but made the mistake of fitting it too high up. As a result, when I later fitted the coils they were touching the reg and also the Boyer ignition ECU at the other side. So I had to reposition then nearer the bottom of the panels, not a big deal just bad planning.
The reluctor for the Lucas Rita electronic ignition was also missing, so I opted for a secondhand Boyer Mk111 to replace it. I have picked up a cheap points set-up in case it isn't working or any future owner wants to revert to the original set-up. The control box (ecu) is mounted inside the LH rear side panel along with the flasher unit which was also missing.
All switches were removed, stripped, cleaned, inspected/tested, greased and reassembled. The lights were treated to the same and then they were all refitted. A few bulbs were replaced, the bulb holders were cleaned out as required and all feeds and earth returns checked for continuity and resistance.
With all these mods the original wiring had to be altered, in fact it ended up nearly a complete replacement loom. I unwound the harness, re-routed, added and upgraded cables as required, then wrapped it all back up nice and neat. I have also made sure all items have a return cable to a central earth which is the top fixing bolt for the LH rear side panel. I also ran in earth returns for the flasher lamps as they didn't have any and were showing a resistance between them and the battery terminal - not a good thing. Another thing I did was to fit a Wipac headlamp lens with a 472 halogen bulb to give better lights, I am planning to test the alternator output once I get the engine running to see if a 190watt alternator upgrade will be required. That just about wrapped up the electrical mods.
All circuits were tested as far as possible, the main problem being the flashers. One front and the other rear do not work although at first the all did. Needs further investigation but as they will all be accessible later other things are taking priority.
Forks
As the top nuts were chewed up and/or rusted up, I decided to replace them. Also the instrument mounts were missing so I had to get replacements. I took the opertunity to fit front fork progressive springs at the same time and of course changed the fork oil too after flushing out the forks. I used Halfords own brand which is slightly thicker than ATF and I have used it on other bikes in the past to good effect. While working in that area, I replaced all the mudguard and fork end cap nuts, bolts & washers with stainless steel ones. The wheels were checked over, bearings all feel good and will be inspected in due course to see if they are the sealed type or not. The rims aren't too bad, bits of rust here and there as with the spokes, but all in all useable for the forseeable future. At the moment I am looking for a bike to ride - not a show bike, so I am not going to be too fussy on the appearance side. The rear sprocket is ok too, but as the bike has only done just over 2000 miles there shouldn't be too much wear anywhere, only the ravages of time and storeage to contend with mostly.
Engine
The engine was a bit dirty looking, mostly surface dirt, but fuel had leaked on the cases and hardened. Also the pushrod tubes are badly rusted and what chrome there was left was flaking off in big chunks so they will need replacing some time, to be decided after I see how the engine is once running. As noted in the electrics section above the reluctor for the Rita was missing as was the oil seal for it. All in all the engine looked ok, nothing a good clean wouldn't put right.
I got a set of stainless screws for all the engine cases and rocker covers. When I went to remove the timing cover screws I found they had not been tightened. So I removed the cover to see why and found there was no crankshaft end oil seal as well as no seal for the ignition rotor. If I had not found this the engine would have been ruined in the first few minutes running. While in there I removed the oil pump both to check it and also to prime it and it's oilways. I also forced oil thru the crankshaft to the big-ends using a pump type oil can. This will ensure the bearings are lubricated on start-up. I also removed, stripped, cleaned, primed and refitted the oil pressure relief valve. I have also removed and checked the oil pressure switch.
I am now waiting delivery of the bolts for an upgraded 4-valve oil pump I have bought so I can get it fitted and to check it for clearance inside the timing cover. Once this is done I can fit the oil seals and timing cover. Then I will be able to fit the ignition rotor and base plate, set the ignition timing and finish off the ignition system.
At the top end, I have checked and reset the valve clearances as required and refitted the rocker covers using stainless screws. I have also fitted an alloy rocker feed unit which not only looks neat but is supposed to help cool the rocker oil as well. I have removed the plugs and squirted some oil into the cylinders to lubricate the rings and cylinder walls - not too much but as it will be a few days till I try to start it there should not be too much chance of the plugs oiling up.
I have drained the engine and gearbox oils, they all looked fine and fresh considering the time they have been in there and must have been changed while the bike was off the road. I checked and flushed the frame tube oil reservior, all nice and clean. A new 'Charlies' base plate with a BSA style paper element oil filter has been fitted. This should extend the life of the engine by filtering the oil better than the original gauze filter. I have yet to refill the systems and will do it once the timing cover is on and I have checked the primary chaincase.
Not a lot to do to the engine now before I can get it running.
Fuel system
The carbs were grotty and needed to be stripped and cleaned out. I removed and serviced them fitting new gaskets & seals and 'viton' tipped float valves. I also cleaned, checked and lubricated their cables and the twistgrip assembly. New rubber fuel hose replaced the old hardened clear plastic hoses and I fitted small in-line fuel filters to help keep any crud out of the carbs. The carbs have been refitted and are ready to setup prior to starting the engine.
The fuel tank had some fluid in it that resembled some sort of inhibiting fluid. If it was then it worked a treat as the inside of the tank was spotless. The outside is another thing, someone has sprayed laquer on it and it has run, and run some more. Most of it has rubbed down ok and polished up reasonable. As I said this is going to be a riding bike so it will do in the meantime. I had to remove the fuel taps and noticed that one was broken so I got a pair of BAP type taps and fitted them. The tank fittings were missing so I got a replacement set along with the "Silver Jubilee" badge for the central grommet. It is now ready to refit when required.
Frame & panelwork
The frame is in good order having been powder coated sometime in the past, probably why it was taken off the road. I have no idea why this was done but I did notice that there has been a bad short or overload of some sort as the battery earth return cable's insulation had melted. Most things like the mudguards, rear shocks, fork top nuts and bracket were all just loosely fitted so all had to be checked. Most had washers missing and a lot of plain nuts used instead of stiffnuts. I have fitted a lot of stainless steel fasteners and where possible nylock/stiffnuts or spring washers for added security against vibration. Around the rear mudguard and side panels I have used mainly metric as I had a lot of stainless metric items from various other bikes I have had (mainly the BMW K100). This should not pose a problem as they are easily identified being allen socket headed.
Most of the frame parts and panelwork have been fitted now along with the air filters and their covers. The outer side covers posed a slight problem as the Silver Jubilee type fittings are no longer available, or at least I can't find any. I have got over it by using 6mm riv-nuts (used to provide secure fittings to car chassis). The larger end is the right size to tap 5/16" UNF, the size of the filter cover securing bolt, and of course takes a 6mm cheese headed screw in the other to secure the side cover in place. If anyone needs further information on this please get in touch and I will send details and a photo of this solution.
There was only one hinge for the seat and no button/spring catch for the other side. These were got and fitted but the rear hinge needed slight adjustment to allow the seat to sit in place without rubbing the RH rear frame top tube. The hole for the catch may need elongating slightly to allow it to catch easier, but I will wait in case it frees up on it's own with use in case it becomes too loose - it didn't so I later filed out the hole to make it fit better.
There were a lot of small parts, spacers etc missing - like engine steady stud & spacer, swing arm grease nipples, rear wheel adjusters and rear axle spacers etc, etc. Most have now been located and ordered/received but I expect the odd thing to crop up still as work progresses.
Well it's getting there slow but sure, I hope to have it running soon, then it will be MOT, tax and ride it. Can hardly wait!!! But I must take my time and do it properly.
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13th Sepember 2008
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Here are some photo of the various parts of the bike while being rebuilt. First is the RH side of the engine during the rebuild before the timing cover was refitted with the new oil seals. Note the cleaned up carbs and the rocker oil feed cooler that I have fitted both for looks and functionality. Next is the RH side of the whole bike with the rear wheel and brake finally fitted as it should be (the rear chain has been cleaned but not greased yet). Lastly is the rear brake in detail.
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This was my original locations of the voltage regulator and the Boyer ECU but they had been moved to clear the coils. They are now down at the bottom of the covers. The right hand photo is of the modified small screws inside the front of the air filter cases.
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Here are some more photos of the bike as it is just now. One from the riders position showing the handlebars, switches, controls and instruments. Another showing the under seat area, with the battery and some wiring. The third is a view from the front of the bike.
19th Sepember 2008
Well all the pieces of the jigsaw are starting to fall into place. I have nearly everything I need now and should be able to start the engine next week. I have got the 4-valve oil pump fitted after grinding out the inside of the timing cover to clear the valve that protrudes out the front of the pump. Not to hard just time consuming, a bit at a time as you can't put the metal back if you take too much out. The crankshaft oil seal is fitted and the timing cover back on. The ignition is timed and the engine is now virtually complete. I have started fitting the exhaust system and hit another problem, there is a miss-match with the pipes/silencers. I have got the RH side on but the LH silencer will not go far enough forward to fit onto it's bracket. Looks like the LH front pipe is too long, so I will have to check that out and I will probably have to cut a bit off the end. It looks as though it may be longer than the RH pipe, but I will also have to check and also make sure the angles will be ok.
I got the rear chain greased in a hot bath and it is now fitted so I can get the chainguard back on. Now the swing arm grease nipples are on I can grease the swing arm bushes and that should wrap up the back end. I had the primary cover off and everything checked out ok. I set the clutch adjustment and gave the primary chain a good oiling, that's where the oil came from that you can see under the engine in the last photos. The primary cover and the LH footrest are back on and that lets me get the LH exhaust on.
All oils still have to be filled, the fuel tank fitted on and filled with some 'fresh' petrol, the LH silencer fitted and I should be ready to run the motor for the first time since 1991.
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Here are two more photos of the bike almost complete and soon to be started up for the first time since 1990 when it was taken off the road.The LH one is the RH side with the timing cover on now and the exhaust pipes and RH silencer. I have a problem with miss-matched exhaust/silencer for the LH side. The RH photo is another view from the front of the bike. By the way, the fuel tank is just sat there as it is not fixed down yet although it is all ready to fit, tomorrow probably.
29th Sepember 2008
I got the exhaust fitted eventually, there was a few ridges of weld inside the LH silencer stopping it going all the way in. The dremal and stone sorted the ones closer to the end but I had to resort to the hand file for the ones further in but all is well now. By the way the pipes were both ok and genuine Triumph ones. I then got the chainguard and pillion footrests back on which just about wrapped up the re-build.
Next job was to fit the oil pressure gauge and billet alloy instrument mounts that I got from TriplesRule, in the USA, click here to see their advert. It's a nice bit of kit and fitted easily. I have the original oil switch now fitted up under the fuel tank out of the way.
With that all sorted I was able to fit the fuel tank and the pipework to the carbs. I put some "fresh" fuel in the tank and turned the cocks on, no leaks and the carbs primed ok. Filled the gearbox, primary chaincase and the oil tank with fresh oil and fitted the new spark plugs and the recharged battery. All ready to kick her over and see what happens
Well I am pleased to say that the motor runs (third kick), and considering the ignition timing has still to be strobed and the carbs syncronised, it ran quite well. Oil pressure built up steadily to 100psi then gradually settled back to 85/90psi and 60psi at a fastish idle. I did snick it into 1st and try it out in the drive and it all worked fine, I can even get neutral with the motor running so it looks promising.
The down side, there always has to be one, is that I think the crankshaft oil seal has turned inside out. When I started it up to set the ignition & carbs I could only get just over 20psi oil pressure so I had to shut it down again. It looks like the oil seals I got were cheap import jobs and the high oil pressure has been too much for them. I will have the timing cover off later this week and check it out. Check back later for the results.
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Here are some photos of the bike now that the re-build is complete and the engine has been started up for the first time since 1991.There is still some work to be done on setting up the carbs and ignition timing. Also there is the now low oil pressure to investigate and sort out but I think I know the cause.
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3rd October 2008
Well I was right about the oil seal, inverted as expected. Got another couple from Grin Triumph in Fife, they look better quality seals all together. Fitted the crankshaft oil seal and also the camshaft one as it was the same poor quality seal and may have gone at any time too. I also fitted two short stem front indicators, same as the rear ones, as I think they look better and a couple of 'Dowty' type seals for the fuel taps as they are better than the ones that came with the bike.
A final check over and the engine was started again. Oil pressure good and stayed that way this time, no problem with these seals. Just shows you have to be careful with some of the parts made these days for these old classics. Got the ignition strobed and the carbs set-up once the engine was warmed up, she runs a lot better now. All covers fitted and a final check and it's time to organise an MOT for next week sometime. I am looking forward to getting it on the road and some miles on the clock, then the bike can make up for some lost time lying around in boxes.
A final check was to test the alternator output. I felt this necessary because as the alternator is now 31 years old the rotor may have lost some of it's magnetism. Also I have fitted a new headlamp lens with a 60/55 watt 472 halogen bulb which is 20 odd watts more powerful than the original plus the expected higher consumption of the Boyer electronic ignition may all be too much for the Lucas RM21's 110 watt output. I fitted an ammeter between the battery and the fuse so that I could find out when the battery was receiving a charge. With the headlamp on, the balance point was at 2500 rpm and I now know that if I'm in slow moving traffic and keep the revs above 2500 I'll be ok. Most of my riding will be on the open road and there are no big towns up here so I can't forsee a problem.
9th October 2008
What a day, Bike now legal to drive on the road again after all this time shut up in garages out of sight.
Got it MOT'd on Monday but it failed due to the rear brake binding on. All had seemed ok before setting off but the constant use on the way there must have dislodged some bits of rubber from the inside of the 'ONLY' hose, or rubber for that matter, in the brake system that I didn't replace. Sods law, as I had managed to get a new one eventually but by that time all the brake system had been fitted and bled and as everything seemed ok I thought (wrongly) that I would wait till the next service to change it.
After I got home I started checking thru the system, took the caliper off and the pads out. Tried to push in the pistons but as one went in the other came out, the fluid was not getting back to the reservior. Took the hose off and drained out the fluid in it, yes there was small bits of rubber in the fluid. Off came the master cylinder and reservior, drained out the fluid and purged the system. Replaced everything along with the new hose, bled it and all is now ok. The moral of this is - don't put off changing important parts, especially brakes. Your life depends on them too often.
While investigating the brake binding problem, on closer inspection I found that the disc was not quite central between the brake pads. The caliper assembly was slightly too far towards the disc and the outboard pad was just about rubbing the disc. With barnd new disc and pads it would have. The only logical reason I can think of is that the spacer between the caliper mounting plate and the speedo drive is too thin. This was one of the missing parts and I am wondering if this is another example of modern after market parts not being made to the original specifications, something I have noticed with a few of the new parts I have bought. I have made another spacer that is slightly thicker and that has positioned the disc half way between the caliper pistons. Another problem sorted.
Anyway, the bike is back on the road and now I will have to get that mileometer adding up the miles, it's got a lot of catching up to do. Hope to see some of you one our travels, watch out for my number plate.
6th June 2009
Went to the Elgin Marafun tomorrow as there was a parade of motorcycles, old and new. So took the Bonnie on it's first public appearance. Gave it a good check over plus a jolly good clean and shine up, looking good for it's age considering it has not had the paintwork or wheels tarted up. One thing I did notice was that the RH fork gaiter has perished and split at it's lower end and that the LH one is going the same way - no time today to change them so will have to do it next week before either the Keith parade or the Loch Ness ralley the following Sunday.
10th June 2009
Replaced the front fork gaiters today, what a job to get the new rubbers to stretch onto the fork legs, but got there and it looks better now. Also adjusted the new rear chain as it has stretched a wee bit settling in now it's done 82 miles. Ready for the road again.
12th June 2009
Got two sets of Ferodo Platinum (sintered) brake pads to improve the braking, already got cast iron discs fitted in readiness for them. So will get them fitted tomorrow - fitted now.
14th June 2009
Went for a run, with Maggie, to Inverness to see the Highland Classic Motorcycle Club's line up for the Loch Ness Ralley. Did not go on the rally but went for a run over onto the Black Isle instead. Bike ran well all the way there and back, fuel consumption looks good and no oil burning worth noting.
So that's it's first real long run since going back on the road, all in all quite pleased. Will now consider my options and probably sell it on as I have now had my Bonnie, as I had always promised myself, sorted this Bonnie and got it going again, so now might be the time to move on.
Called into see a Yamaha XJ600 in Nairn on the way back, nice bike but I think some parts have been neglected with it lying around most of it's life. So I may buy it if the other interested chap does not come up with the money. Watch this space because that might be my next project. I am getting as much enjoyment from fettling older bikes as from riding them these days and it gives me something to keep me and the brain active.
20th June 2009
Well I got the XJ600, trailered it home and set about getting it ready for the road. See the page dedicated to it on this site for more details and photos.
I would like to pass on my thanks to everyone who helped me in getting this re-build completed, without them it would not have been possible.
Thank you all!
13th July 2009
I have sold the Bonneville to a fellow member in the Highland Classic Motorcycle Club who loves the bike and most importantly - uses it, which was the main point in getting it back on the road. Good on you John!
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